Crazy Cyborg’s YJ Page

So, I finally got around to removing my old D35 that exploded on me back in November. My choice of axle to replace it with was a GM 14 Bolt, partially because it was already geared to 4.10’s, it was cheap, recently rebuilt, and nearly bulletproof. It is on the heavy side, but if this axle works out for me, I will swap to disc brakes to hopefully shed 80 lbs from the drum setup.

Getting the old D35 out was a weekend process, I tried to undo the u-bolt nuts which turned out to be unsuccessful, and the Mini-Grinder came in to finish the job off easily and quickly. After that was done, I undid my shock bolts and removed them from the axle, undid the brake lines and breather tube. Then finally today I took off the emergency brake cables, and hauled the old axle out.

Now comes the fun part! I decided to keep the 14 Bolt Spring Over Axle (SOA), to hopefully go to some longer and less stiff leafs, while keeping my lift. After many hopeful measurements, I realized I had to face the inevitable and re-weld the spring perches. I suppose this isn’t a huge problem, it is just one extra cost I was hoping to get away without. The leaf springs I decided to go with were from a 1984 Toyota Pickup, they measure 44 3/4″ eye to eye, where the YJ rear leaf springs are 43″ eye to eye, so this will give me nearly 2″ of stretch there, as well the centering pin is offset, so I can possibly gain some more stretch that way!

Im hoping to have the rear axle ready to go in by the end of April - This involves the new perches and shock mounts welded in, finding new hard brake lines, adapting my current e-brake cables, installing new bushings in the ‘Yota leafs, and putting those leafs in my YJ. The hardest part is going to be the welding to the axle, as I don’t have access to a welder.

Well, I never posted why I have been out of touch for so long, but to make a long story very short, I blew up my rear differential - into several hundred pieces. So since it hasn’t been driveable for the last while, I havn’t gotten around to doing anything else to it.

So, for the axle dilemma, I have decided to go to a 3/4 Chev Full Width 14 Bolt from a fellow member of EJC which I should be picking up in the near future here. When it will actually go in - probably after some snow has melted.

Also in some other interesting news, I was attending a HAM radio course for the past couple of weeks, took my test today, and passed with a Basic Lisence - So you can expect more about installs/tweaking/information in the not so distant future as well. I am pretty excited to now be a HAM operator, after taking the course I have realized so many of the neat things that are possible with these radios, much more then what most people are using (myself included), the CB (or as our instructor would say, the “Chicken Band”).

Thats all for now,
Cyborg

So I sold my ash-tray to a fellow EJC member, since I don’t need it. With that ashtray also went my 12V Aux plug in, and Switches. So I had to set out a new plan for where I was going to re-locate these things before I went mad of listening to local radio stations instead of my Sirius. I had the instrument cluster in mind for a few months back, and tonight I finally got the chance to cut it up!

So I took the cluster cover off, took some measurements to make sure I would be able to fit the extra length of the 12V plug ins, and after some looking around, I determined I would have enough room if I removed the “dust screen” between the gauges and the radio/heater. So I set off to buy some wire and 12V plug ins (I had already bought some small “Bat Handle” switches for my lights). What I got for the plug ins was from Canadian Tire (I’m sure available at any store that carries automotive parts) and it included some wire leads with slip on connections, and also some “dust caps” for the plug in opening - I think this will be a great feature for open top wheeling, to keep the dust, water, and mud out of them.

So I started to finally cut the cluster. I had already determined I wanted on 12V Aux plug in on either side, so I could have my Sirius on one side, and a cell charger/inverter/Other cool 12V thing on the other side closer to the glove box. I measured, and the usable flat spot on the cluster is 1 1/2″ tall, so I split it in the middle, and drew my dot 1″ in from both sides (for each plug in) and 3/4″ from the lower lip. My plug ins came with brackets for mounting (which I didn’t use) which made a great template to draw a circle of how much I had to cut out. Once I had the circles drawn, I went at it with my dremel tool. First was an “X” cut, then I notched it out to be a small square. From there I went in with a tip shown in the picture (It is a porous cone shaped bit) to round it out to the desired size. Just remember to check the hole often so you don’t enlarge it to much.

Once the 12V Aux plug ins were installed, I went ahead with installing the switches. Once again, I moved an inch over from the plug in on the left side, and 3/4″ from the bottom lip. I marked one dot, and drilled myself a pilot hole, after the pilot hole, I went up the largest bit I had available to me (3/8″ drill bit), and once I had drilled that hole, it still wasn’t large enough, so I went at the hole with that same dremel bit from earlier. Once again, check the hole often so you done enlarge it to much. Once the first switch was done, I repeated the same steps for the second switch. The space from switch to switch is about 1/2″ of a gap, leaving enough room for even the largest of fingers to comfortable operate them. One thing I would have done differently is get the correct sized drill bit.

The reason I installed two switches so far is so I can operate my two lights separately, specifically so I can keep my passenger side running while driving on the highway to light up the ditch (These lights face outwards at approximately a 30 degree angle, so I don’t want to run both at once and annoy oncoming drivers). If you have any other ideas on where to mount switches, or a replacement 12V Aux plug in, let me know.

Automatic Transmission
8.3L -> ATF +3

Manual Transmission
3.3L -> 75W-90 Gear Oil *2.5 L Engine or AX-5 Transmission*
3.2L -> 75W-90 Gear Oil *4.0 L Engine or AX-15 Transmission*

Brake Fluid
Top-Off as Required -> DOT 3 Brake Fluid

Differential Fluid
Front
1.5L -> 75W-90 Gear Oil
1.5L -> 80W-140 Gear Oil *Towing Package*
Rear
1.2L -> 75W-90 Gear Oil
1.2L -> 80W-140 Gear Oil *Towing Package*

Engine Coolant
8.5L -> 50/50 mix Coolant and Water *2.5 L Engine*
9.9L -> 50/50 mix Coolant and Water *4.0 L Engine*

Engine Oil
3.8L -> 5W-30 (-29C to 16C) *2.5 L Engine*
3.8L -> 10W-30 (-18C to 38C+) *2.5 L Engine*
5.7L -> 5W-30 (-29C to 16C) *4.0 L Engine*
5.7L -> 10W-30 (-18C to 38C+) *4.0 L Engine*

Transfer Case Fluid
1.0L -> ATF+ or DEXRON II

Although all the information is posted to book specifications, I think it is always a good idea to buy an extra liter of whatever type of fluid you are replacing. That way if you require more, you can add more, and if you don’t then you will have some spare fluid for that pesky leak.

I was recently doing a little investigation about tuning my new CB antenna and stumbled upon a great area of information regarding CBs, cables, and antennas. This information is provided on the Cobra® website, and can be found at cobra.com. You will want to choose “Category -> CB Radio” and then explore the sub-category’s. I found the best information in the “Troubleshooting” and “General Questions” options.

“What is SWR?
SWR is short for “standing wave ratio”. It is a measure of how well the antenna is performing. Most problems with the antenna or antenna cable will show up during an SWR check. Please note that the SWR is a measure of antenna performance. A poor SWR is caused by the antenna, the antenna cable, or a poor antenna installation. Poor SWR is not caused by the radio. Since the SWR is a function of the antenna system, changing radios will not affect the SWR. “

“There is excessive noise on my CB radio.
Noise on a mobile CB is caused by one of 2 things:
1. Engine noise
2. Atmospheric (background) noise
The more noise there is, the shorter the range. This is because you will need a stronger signal to hear it above the noise. “

“Choosing an Antenna
After choosing a radio, the next step is to choose an antenna. The most important consideration is length. The longer the antenna, the better range you will get. An 8 foot antenna gets the best range, but not many people are willing to use such a long antenna. Our recommendation is to buy the longest antenna that you are willing to use. For some people that may be 5 feet, while for others it may be only 1 foot. Just remember that short antennas do not get good range.”

After poking around, I had actually learned quite a bit of information that I had no idea could be so helpful. My next agenda is to go out and buy a SWR meter so I can sit in my jeep and experiment a bit. Any tips you have relating to CBs, Antennas, or Cable routing? Please feel free to share them. Thanks Cobra for putting such a detailed FAQ on the internet for all us enthusiasts to read and enjoy.

I am in no way associated or affiliated with Cobra®

Wind noise, something you need to expect when buying a jeep (of any sort - even mom’s brand new libby has some noise from the targa top - not nearly as bad as Reggie though). You will eventually get used to it and just drown it out. This doesn’t mean that you shouldn’t try to stop it though, because it is not only annoying for your passengers, but also is a major heat loss during the winter. Think, every hole that is causing a whistle is just that, a hole.

The first place I attempted to tackle was front corners of the top where the top, doors, and windshield meet. Last year I tried some spongy adhesive material, this worked, but was very poor and temporary (the stuff fell out within two weeks). So this winter I decided to bite the bullet and try silicone. Wow! What a difference. The escaping heat isn’t evident yet, because it hasn’t gotten that cold, but the whistling alone has greatly improved.

So the main objective here is pretty simple, fill the holes with some silicone! I picked up a small tube of clear silicone, and went to town. I personally didn’t care about looks (at least not this year) because it is hidden in a corner behind the roll bar - no one has noticed yet unless I point it out to them. If you wanted to make things neat and tidy, you could apply some masking tape around the area, and after you were done, remove the masking tape to leave a clean line.

First I applied some silicone from the outside of the jeep to guarantee a nice seal on both sides, and then most from the inside, spreading it out with my finger. I layered my coats (quarter inch each time), and allowed it to dry for a night or two. I didn’t clean off the old silicone before applying a new coat, but I would recommend cleaning it with some alcohol or at least water to get any dirt or grime off to allow for a better bond. I’m sure you could also apply it all in one session, but it will take longer to dry and may also be harder to keep clean and form nicely.

After you are done using the silicone be sure to leave a little bead out of the end, so next time you go to use it, you can just rip off the bead and go (unless your silicone comes with a cap, that will work too). Silicone is usually fairly easy to remove, but be warned, it may take some paint with it if removed incorrectly (I will update next spring how it comes off when I take my hard top off for the summer). That is all I am going to do for this winter, but two other areas I will eventually do write-ups on is the windshield channel, and underneath the hard top rails, I would like to get some foam insulation strips (the stuff that is adhesive on one side, and foamy on the other), and press it between those areas..

Wow guys, I have been WAY to broke to do anything exciting lately, but Ive squeezed a little bit together to do some small things, and here is a little teaser post to let you know whats coming up.



First up on the slate is my brake drums, no real write-up on this, as I did some “redneck” modifications to get them to work (no, they are completely safe, just a weird way to get them to work). After the first test drive, I determined I do not like the new “stopping power” achieved from the new drum brakes, but I’m sure Ill get used to them. Maybe next time I do the brakes, I will show some tips of what I found useful (and possibly even a write-up how to use brake pliers, because I had no clue, until AMCJeep (member from EJC) came by and showed us how to use them . . . properly.



Secondly, I had a good idea, since wind noise really sucks, to try and block some of the holes where wind whistles through (and possibly keep some of the heat in during winter months - up here in Canada, things get cold). Just another teaser shot, with a short write-up to follow (really, it can’t get very hard to do). So far, I have noticed a pretty good improvement already, and I still have more patching to do.



Lastly is my new-to-me transmission. It is just another AX-5 out of a 98 TJ. I have tentative plans to throw it in this weekend, so I might have a write-up for a transmission swap coming shortly. The TJ it came from has ~250 000km on it, but is supposedly in good condition, no grinding in any gears, no leaks, and appears to be pretty good from visuals. Wish me luck!

Alright, not much of an update, but I finally got off my butt, and I am now starting/updating a mileage table. Once I get a few more recorded fill ups, I will do a lifetime average milage (adjusted only).

Also, I am going to incorporate a way to note what changes I have made that either make mileage go up/down. I’m thinking for now the easiest and most informative way would be for me to just write an entire post on it.

Unfortunately no new transmission in my hands either. The grinding isn’t so embarrassing as it is annoying now. Hoping someone will come through.

Hey guys, sorry I havn’t updated in a while, I’ve been in the middle of a move, and havn’t had any time to be wrenching, or even taking pictures.

Don’t worry though, Im going to have to do a transmission swap right away. My 3rd gear is completly gone, and it grinds while in neutral unless my clutch is in until I come to a stop. So, there should be lots of pictures for that one.

Oh, I also got a soft top, and installed it, so when I get some more time, I will do a detailed “How To: Install and Take Off”, because I know it could have helped me, thats for sure!

So long for now, hopefully get some real updates done here right away,
Cyborg

Hey guys, I know we can all use the little bit of extra power or mileage that we can get, and for the cost of around $20 (seafoam only, does not include other supplies) there is really no reason to pass this maintenance tip up. The only things you will need are 2 cans of seafoam (for my Canadian residents, I am told that ONLY napa stores carry this product, if you can confirm another company please let me know), and a funnel that will fit inside your brake booster line (see second picture), you might also want to get some heater hose that will fit into your gas tank filler spout so you don’t spill seafoam on the side of your jeep. (NOTE: This can be done on any vehicle, but for this writeup I am explaining in detail for a fuel injected YJ only).



So, first step is the vacuum line portion, I decided to use the brake booster line as it was the easiest and most convenient. Bring your jeep up to operating temperature (a short drive around the block should do) and park it with the garage door open, or outside. Go ahead and pop the hood, locate the brake booster vacuum line, and pry it off. Now grab your funnel and push it into the hose (the tighter the fit the better, if you can’t afford a funnel, or forgot to buy one, heavy paper will do in a pinch). Open the can of seafoam in preparation and place it somewhere easy to grab (like on the fender), now go ahead and start your vehicle, don’t be alarmed, your RPM’s will travel up dramatically from idle, this is because you have created a vacuum leak. Now go grab your funnel and opened can of seafoam and SLOWLY start to pour the seafoam into the funnel, you will soon find out how fast you can pour the fluid in without choking out the engine, for me, it took about 10 minutes to empty the entire bottle (if you do accidentally choke out the engine, quickly go start the engine back up again, and continue pouring). When you get to the last little sips, pour the remainder of the can down the funnel (this will choke out the engine hopefully and now you can go shut the ignition off, and if it doesn’t, go turn the ignition off quickly). Make sure you go plug the vacuum line back in. Now you have about 10 minutes to waste while you wait for the seafoam to soak in and penetrate, so head on to the next step.



The next step is the easiest, and the quickest. You will only need a half a can of seafoam for this step (approximate is good, but try to be close). I would recommend filling your tank before you pour any seafoam in, don’t fill it to the lip, or you wont have any extra room. If you decided to use heater hose for this, go ahead and put the heater hose down the filler neck, once the hose is in, and facing upright, put the funnel in the heater hose. If you chose not to use the heater hose, just place the funnel in the filler neck (For a YJ, I would recommend you use some heater hose, or you will be pouring at a very weird angle). Now, go ahead and pour about half a can into the gas tank. If you don’t have a full tank of fuel, that should be your first stop after your test drive.



Now, if it has been 10 minutes, do a quick vehicle walk around, make sure you didn’t leave any tools, empty cans, cell phones (doh!) or gas caps laying around. If you are ready to go, close the hood, hop in, and fire it up. You will notice LOTS of smoke from your exhaust pipe, this is a good thing, as the seafoam is working. Go ahead and drive it to a road where you can let your right foot and the gas pedal become “one”. When you have taken about a 10 or 15 minute drive (longer if you are still smoking) either go to the gas station of your choice, or go park it at home if you are already full.



The third and final step I have not completed, because I changed my oil about 500 km before I added the seafoam, and I didn’t want to change the new oil so quick. This step will also use a half a can. Since I have not done it yet on my jeep, I will only do a quick outline. You will pour the remaining half can straight into your oil, and drive around about 50-100 km. After the 50-100 km are on, change your oil, you will notice the oil is very dark and possibly thick, well, it did it’s job.

I havn’t driven long enough, or with fair enough conditions to tell if this helped my mileage or power, but after a quick drive up a hill where I can usually hold 80 km/h, I can still hold 80 km/h, but, with my e-brake on (oops, bye bye e-brake). When I start driving the speed limit and with my hard top on again, and have done the oil step, I will update this post with my findings.